VADEMECUM FOR PERSONAL FRAGRANCE TESTING
TESTING ON THE MOUILLETES – FRAGRANCE BLOTTERS (Neutral Support)
Mouillettes / perfume blotters allow you to test fragrances on a neutral support. Before spraying the blotter, we suggest that you write the name of the perfume on the far end of the blotter. Proceed to spray the opposite end of the blotter with the fragrance and be sure to arrange the sprayed blotters in a fan shape so that they do not come into contact with one another. Write down your observations making reference to the name of the perfume. Avoid touching your nose with the blotter. Remember that the blotter is a cold, neutral support utilized more a perfumer’s personal tool and does not express the complex development of the perfume in the same way as it does on skin.
TESTING DIRECTLY ON SKIN (Live Support / Interactive Support)
Before spraying fragrance on skin, make sure that the area to be sprayed is completely free of fragrance or perfumed body lotions. Avoid spraying on the wrist where one wears their watch as sometimes the fragrance of a leather strap could alter the fragrance that you are evaluating. Feel free to spray on hands and inner forearm.
Make sure to wait at least a few minutes after you have applied the fragrance to begin your evaluation. This amount of time will allow the alcohol to evaporate and bring the perfume into clear focus on your skin. For your personal evaluation, we suggest that you test one fragrance a day. By doing this, it will enable you to clearly define how each single phase of the fragrance develops on your skin.
Top Notes: These are the first notes that are released in the air and that invite you (and others) to want to try the fragrance. The time span of this phase for a classic citrus fougère / floral is generally from the first 5 to 30 minutes. (Woodwinds)
Notes of the Heart: This is the most important phase for evaluation. This is where a classic fragrance releases its true character on your skin because ample time has been given for the fragrance to begin the delicate orchestration of the evaporation period of every essential oil that it contains. The time span of this phase for a classic citrus fougère / floral is generally from 2 to 4 hours. (Initially Woodwinds, then Strings, Brass building into a full orchestra)
Drydown: This part of the evaluation is equally as important to evaluate because it shows the fragrance in complete symbiosis with your skin and signals the start of a gentle mellowing process of the fragrance. The time span of this phase for a classic citrus fougère / floral is generally from 4 to 6 hours on skin and is also the phase that will remain for up to two weeks on a silk scarf that has been softly draped around fragrant shoulders. (Strings and Percussion)
Write down your thoughts and comments for every single phase of its development and remember, the beauty of wearing fragrances that contain natural essential oils is the intricate way in which they evolve on every skin type.